all this too shall pass

2012-01-05T09:39:00.000-08:00

And it's all over folks!

One year in Italy and I'm back home. No one around, amazing views, beautiful food and a garden that can literally feed an army ( go Mum!) Despite hoping to find my fortune at the bottom of yesterdays rainbow, I'll be searching for some honest work over the next few months before setting off on the road again. London, Australia, China or Japan, I'm not yet sure.
But uncertainty is something that doesn't last forever and I'm cherishing not being able to predict where I'll be and what I'll be working towards week by week. Time reveals all. For now, it's all about saying hello to dearly missed family and friends. Yes 'Home Sweet Home' and....Arrivederci x

2012-01-03T22:13:00.000-08:00

Transit. Jet Lag. Pure Hell.

2011-12-29T07:56:00.000-08:00

Counting down to goodbye 

Over the past few days we had the opportunity to house sit for the cutest little abode right in Venice central. The magic of the city never ceases to excite me, but it's also nice getting to the point where I'm just as happy to sit inside and relax as I am walking about 'taking it all in.' The last few days were just what I needed. A tree hut in the sinking city.

2011-12-27T05:55:00.000-08:00

2011-12-26T02:11:00.000-08:00

Tocca te!

The longest duration of board/card games I have ever played in my life ( in Italian!) What fun x

2011-12-25T00:26:00.000-08:00

Spritz Snizmaz!
 After being served the most elaborate seafood antipasto in my life, the pasta, followed by secondi piatti's began and after the third, secondi, it was generally agreed that we had all eaten to much and we needed some time out. Wallets out, money in and let's play! Until the early hours of the morning we played Tombola ( Bingo) and, well,  I lost a lot of money. Thought my Italian is rather good now, playing in another language put me at a loss. However today is another day and being Xmas I'm sure we are about to repeat it all over again. Gaining in figure, but lacking in funds. Merry Xmas everyone! x

2011-12-24T01:00:00.000-08:00

Dreaming of a White Xmas Tomorrow!

The temperature isn't ideal right now for being a tourist, but that didn't put us off. Yesterday we ventured to Ferrara to explore this wonderful medieval city, eat hot pizza, drink spritz and enjoy the festivity. Beautiful, but absolutely freezing. I'm spending the next week indoors.

2011-12-22T07:11:00.000-08:00

2011-12-20T13:25:00.001-08:00

2 degrees in Venice

2011-12-18T04:51:00.000-08:00

Older and wiser
Excuse the bed hair. It was my birthday yesterday and this was taken mere seconds after waking up this morning in last nights clothes. Classy. To be in Venice this morning was wonderful and I feel like a complete tourist again, snapping up every canal and gondolier. It's beautiful, but don't let my attire fool you - it's icy cold!

2011-12-15T12:41:00.000-08:00

The whole objective of this year ( really, I had an objective?) was to immerse myself in the "real" Italy. Well here I am in the middle of it. I was warned against teaching as almost every school has a terrible reputation with payment. No, really. I have heard horror stories and thought I had won the jackpot with my cushy new job at a reputable school. Not so. I shouldn't get into the dirty details of it all, but basically things here have gone from bad to worse and my situation is just a downright cliche. I have been roped into a dirty mess, hiding secrets, accepting situations I would never have dreamed of and walking away feeling like I was pushing drugs or something of the like, not teaching English! Today was a long, hard day, but luckily I can be downright staunch when I need to be (thanks Mum) and I wasn't going to accept walking away without payment. I may have had to threaten a tip off to the Police and pretend I had already called my lawyer, but I have now been promised payment tomorrow. Or so they tell me. Here I am in the middle of it. The real Italy; La Dolce Vita. Un Grande Cazzo.

2011-12-11T12:53:00.001-08:00

Galleria Borghese
I started packing my bags to come home today and realized I don't have all that much to show for my trip. The same rags I arrived in and a whole lot of memories. Yes, all of my money has gone on train trips, meals out or gallery tickets and today was last of such trips. Galleria Borghese demands you pre-book and visitors are only assigned a two hour slot, but boy is it worth it. This was the most impressive collection I have ever seen in.my.life and includes works by Titian, Caravaggio, Bernini and Raphael. I've never really appreciated sculpture before, but Bernini swiftly changed that. In particular, the detail of "The Rape of Proserpina"  sent a shiver down my spine as the realism with which the struggle is depicted is so acute. The frescoes were also some of the most amazing I've seen all year and in my opinion, even more striking than the Sistine Chapel!  Simply put  if you're headed to Rome, after the Colloseum, do not leave Galleria Borghese off your list.

2011-12-10T00:55:00.000-08:00

Silly Season!

2011-12-08T14:35:00.000-08:00

Tis the Season! 
Today was just a normal day. I was busy building train tracks when three men came to the window and sung us a tune. I was just saying hello to my friend Charlotte when the Pope drove by and then disappeared into a tunnel. I was just walking through the center when I noticed a film was being shot and then, as I was about to catch my Metro home, I witnessed an outdoor Opera. And what better way to end the day than by making a wish to Babbo Natale? Christmas is in full swing. I'm going to miss this place.

2011-12-03T16:43:00.000-08:00

Serial monogamy with Elle.

2011-12-01T10:01:00.000-08:00

"Save Rome from Rubbish! Soon!" Rubbish. It's a big problem here in Italy. Political, economical and like a lot of 'hot issues,' all tied up with the Mafia. Naples, where rubbish collectors went on strike and bags were set on fire by fed up residents, has been riddled with problems for the past ten years. In almost every respect  the infrastructure here simply DOES NOT WORK and it's enough to drive anyone crazy. Just managing to send a letter deserves a medal; anything else is a bonus. Rome is in crisis. Increasing poverty, a metro that only runs until 9pm, fed up, over-worked, tired, under-paid residents and a government that incites little faith. It's a big old city and these are dark times. As the title of today's paper reads, "Povera Roma: How to exit from the tunnel?"

2011-11-29T12:47:00.000-08:00

And they call this Winter.

2011-11-27T14:11:00.001-08:00

 Domenica

2011-11-23T12:41:00.000-08:00

Tiring old Rome 

Typical. Today my bus was an hour late (and subsequently, so was I) and then on the way home the Metro broke down and let me off in the middle of nowhere. The stop I, well, stopped at was right next to a cinema and so, tired and wanting to escape the rain,  I bought a ticket to see Scialla. I love seeing films by myself and usually have no problem, but unfortunately the cinema was full and despite the effort in which I made to disguise myself, I was discovered.
I had sat in the wrong seat. The fatal mistake which drew the attention of all to the tall, strange tourist who then stumbled over her words and went a little red faced. "Sai che questa film é in Italiano cara," I was told. By all. Yes, I announced to the room. I know.

Scialla tells a very Roman coming of age story and I laughed and cried. And afterwards? Everyone turned to the lone, English speaking foreigner to ask - with a glare of cynicism - "é come andata?"
"Hai capito qualcosa?" "Si!" I said, feeling very out of place in a cinema packed only with Romans. "Ho capito tutto!" Ma, perché no!?

2011-11-22T14:21:00.000-08:00

Senza NomeI want to introduce you to my very good friend Gonario. I met Gonario a few months back now when I was but a lonesome traveler looking for something 'off the beaten track,' affordable and relaxing. After but one visit to 'No Name,' Gonario and I had developed a friendly rapport and I had decided that this was a bar I would revisit. Because this is what you do in Italy. You discover a place you like, build up a relationship and return, time and time again.

Only this is not exactly how it worked out. I offered to work with Gonario as an opportunity to improve my Italian and he, ever so lovely, took me under his wing, excited for an opportunity to show off his 'Neo Zealandese' friend. This provided myriad opportunities to introduce myself, receive running monologues from almost everyone about their own lives, their sisters lives, why Italy and Rome are so great, politics here, the food, etc.

Soon after this position commenced however I began working as an English Teacher and so my 'work' came to an end. However I'm still a regular face at No Name and luckily, I'm still able to catch up on the gossip.  I wanted to put his face up here as it has been Gonario's kindness that has, at times, made Rome feel all the more like home. I'm so sad to leave the life I'm just starting to build here, however I have a feeling I'll be back sooner than I plan. I hope at least... I do hope. 

2011-11-17T11:23:00.000-08:00

State of the Nation (today)

As everyone knows, the country has finally seen the end of 'The Berlosconi Era.' Somewhat ironically I've discovered it's not too often people really want to talk about politics here. They find it all too depressing, feel helpless, let down and overwhelmed with the great list of the country's problems.

However now, or at least over the past week, I've overheard people speaking, openly, offering their own opinion on the metro or the bus, about what they think should change and who should now be in power.

I love it, teaching has now morphed into six hour interview sessions where I ask people to speak about what matters to them - and it's always politics and family - and if I don't watch out I'll soon be walking around with all of the cities gossip.

Last week for example, I was teaching a woman how to use 'should' and 'shouldn't.' After asking her to apply the use of the word to her own real life situation she revealed, " I shouldn't have married my husband." A punto.

Today I taught a 46 year old the alphabet and it's students like these who encourage me to forget all my doubts and ask myself, 'Now what is that I really want to do with my life? It's not too late to change! Learn Japanese? Become a painter?' Why not. 

Another student who had me stumped, was a Mexican Diplomat who suggested, "I think as a society, we could say, Italians are more concerned with their rights than their obligations."

Have I mentioned they're really quite incredible at inventing their own, NEW, BETTERER English words?

I don't know, but it's all food for thought and there are certainly  many moments where I have to bite my tongue and repeat, " the customer's always right Lucy - smile and nod." But for the most part, I love it. I wish I could stay, but I can't.

So it's home to New Zealand after Xmas.

2011-11-14T09:38:00.000-08:00

Hai sete?
What better way to escape the three million inhabitants of Rome than to run for the hills!? Just 15 minutes from the center by Metro, there exists a row of aqueducts built Pre BC! They were used to bring water from the hills into the city and their primary function was to fill lavish swimming pools and drinking fountains. It was breathtaking.

2011-11-13T09:51:00.000-08:00

Il cibo da quaThe old cliche - "when in Rome" - really is a truth. When living in Rome, one is forced to adapt to the way the Romans live. To always be late, to cuss and curse without a moments hesitation, to speak ones mind, to stay out late, to drink too much, to always socialize and to never say no to indulging in Romanese food. Which is A LOT heavier than what I was used to in the North. My diet here is literally consisting of a rotation of pork panino's, pizza by the slice, whole pizza, calzoni pizza (featured above), pasta, pasta, pasta, rice and sausage salad (?) and Tiramisu. The drink of choice is Negroni, which is something I don't regret becoming accustommed to - one part gin, one part Vermouth and one part Campari - on the rocks. It takes a while, but eventually one adapts. Forza Roma!

2011-11-12T09:23:00.000-08:00

La mia vita a Roma

2011-11-07T13:06:00.000-08:00

The Roman way: a life of pleasure and gluttony!
Today I left work at 2.30 and refused to have lunch by myself and so, as there was yet another strike in Rome, I trecked right across town to meet my dear friend Elle for the loveliest date in the world. As we finished our lunch, we peered out the window only to note that in fact the sun had gone down and it was nearing 6 o clock. Which meant of course it was time for a wee stroll to the Trevi Fountain, the Panthenon, followed by Piazza Navona, an Aperitivo, across to Campo Dei Fior and finally ending the night with an espresso across the River in Trestevere. What a lovely way to round off the working day indeed. Ah, gluttony. 

2011-11-05T13:47:00.000-07:00

Look up! 

Recently I've been starting my day sprinting. Downing coffees and running from one end of Rome to another, pushing my way onto the metro and making different appointments only in the nick of time. So today I had the brilliant idea of doing something just for me - something, er, relaxing, during my lunch break. Yes, today I visited the Sistine Chapel with only an hour to spare : possibly the silliest decision I've made since I arrived here. Utterly, totally exhausting, but amazing none the less. In hindsight a day is probably a more appropriate allocation of time, but there's always next week. Look up! Look up! Look up!

2011-11-04T11:41:00.000-07:00

What a difference a day makes...
The hard yards are paying off! Finally - oh la! - I'm legitimately working as a full time teacher at an English school. The location is wonderful; it's right behind the castle featured above and only a 5 minute stroll to the Vatican City. The days are long, but rewarding and I so enjoy my evening walks as I follow the Tiber river all the way home. The autumn air is warm and musky right now and I love it. I think I'm more of a winter person after all. Life is good; welcome to the real world Lucy. Happy Days!

2011-10-31T14:29:00.000-07:00

Today I crawled at a snails pace from Milan to Rome in possibly the slowest, dirtiest and most awkward train ride of my life. Highlights include: being stuck in a cabin alone as a teenage couple made out in the seat right next to me, the scary man who then sat opposite me for three hours commenting on “what a nice girl I am ;),” needing to pee whilst being reluctant to leave all my belongings in a cabin with said man, the irritable, better-than-everyone-here Louis V princess who joined us for half an hour before she strutted off and the old woman who arrived at the end of my journey and sat in the corner, shamelessly and without hesitation, staring me down, studying my every move. Travelling on the cheap is a little sketchy here in Italy, but I survived. It was so great to see friends, old and new, but I'm glad to be back...home sweet home ( that is, here in Rome) x

2011-10-30T07:52:00.000-07:00

Milano! Milano! Milano!

2011-10-28T01:03:00.000-07:00

The darling jewel of Italy, Venice
Revisiting Venice has made me realize how absolutely aesthetically spoilt I was. While I can't say Rome is also like this - because, it's not! - I certainly can appreciate that both cities have their up sides. Venice, the beauty, the art, the relentless drinking, over-indulgence, socializing, campo! whereas Rome has fashion, live music, chaos, the metro, "the big city vibe," cool bars and restaurants and of course, markets and local-everyday-normalized-life. They have their low points too, of course, but in their own way I appreciate them both. Tomorrow it's off to visit Milan again and then back to the dirty South. 

2011-10-27T01:29:00.000-07:00

Dottore!

2011-10-25T08:23:00.000-07:00

Wet Venice

2011-10-23T11:25:00.000-07:00

Autumn is wonderful!

2011-10-16T10:18:00.000-07:00

Piazza del Popolo meets MJ

2011-10-15T23:44:00.000-07:00

The day that Rome erupted

2011-10-15T08:30:00.000-07:00

Il Piccolo Principe

"Now here is my secret. It is very simple. It is only with one's heart that one can see clearly. What is essential is invisible to the eye."

"Men have forgotten this basic truth," said the fox. "But you must not forget it, for what you have tamed you become responsible forever. You are responsible for your rose..."

2011-10-13T10:09:00.000-07:00

Capital Fashion

2011-10-11T09:49:00.000-07:00

You could say,  it was an aesthetically pleasing day
And then I came home to this, which provided two seconds of fleeting hope before I remembered that I live with a teenage boy....the perils of being a twelve year old girl aye. Good luck to em!

2011-10-10T07:00:00.001-07:00

See that guy on the right?
Yep, he's in charge of traffic. Crossing the road in Rome is a death trap I tell you.

2011-10-10T06:53:00.000-07:00

Villa Borghese

2011-10-07T05:56:00.000-07:00

I went for my first swim six months ago today and only now, just now, the weather is showing signs of turning "bad." My sun roasted skin is just waiting for winter however and I have my fur coats all laid out, eager to be worn. Bring on the grey and rug me up I say!

2011-10-06T01:50:00.000-07:00

Usciamo alla notte!

2011-10-05T06:44:00.000-07:00

Troppo troppo buonoSince discovering the worlds best gelato store ( and I'm not just saying that...it's incredible) I've been suffering from 3.30 itis pretty bad. Just as the clock strikes 3.29 I've been experiencing an  urge, that nothing else can cure, other than a trip to Testaccio for "just one scoop please." The trouble with making best friends with your local gelato man is obvious enough, but it's a relationship I'm happy to harvest. I'll stop with the Nigella Lawson esk ranting right now, but I hope I have made my point. If you come to Rome, you MUST venture to Testaccio to buy a tub or two. OH MY GOODNESS. What will come of me in Italy's South.

2011-10-04T10:30:00.000-07:00

Molto Roma

I totally get it, Italians do it better

2011-10-02T12:26:00.000-07:00

As the sun fades......she sets out on her bike and rides around the city!

2011-09-30T14:52:00.000-07:00

"You see, while there are no rules, there is a certain order to driving in Rome."
No I don't, but it sure as hell is fun driving around on a bike, eating pizza at different stops, downing a few beers and before it's time to go home, receiving my very first lesson. The smile on my face tonight is ridiculous, what a great way to see Roma! Thanks Matteo!

2011-09-29T01:47:00.001-07:00

Venice => Rome and <= back againVisitors are nice x

2011-09-28T13:23:00.000-07:00

My life now

Above is a picture of my house. Yes, it's a stark contrast to a mini palazzo in Venice, but I like it. Some normality is good and I can't quite  express the sense of optimism I feel in Rome. Perhaps it's because it's  such a big city and there is much going on here. People driving (  like maniacs!) everywhere, incredible art exhibitions, music,  fashion shows - it's endless. My Italian is coming along nicely, I  have a few more pennys in my pocket and I'm feeling good. What can I  say? It's home! 

2011-09-26T23:35:00.000-07:00

The most beautiful graveyard in the world...Behind Rome's infamous Piramide exists the capitals only International Graveyard. It's a beautifully kept place, with a mish mash ( my new favorite term) of exotic fruit trees and flowers. It's a wonderful place to spend an afternoon dosing in the sun or walking around contemplating all of lifes wonders. There's no place more poignant than Rome to make you realize your own finiteness. It's a happy place pero, full of charm. What a wonderful way to waste the day.

2011-09-25T10:16:00.000-07:00

Mish Mash Art

2011-09-24T13:00:00.000-07:00

A Roman Day...

2011-09-20T08:48:00.000-07:00

2011-09-19T11:01:00.000-07:00

Autunno

2011-09-18T08:40:00.000-07:00

Goodbye Summer
Being hassled to buy something every second, paying a euro to pee or change, strange men staring at you, having to search for a "free beach" just to lay on your towel - my last swim of summer, and I'm not going to miss it. It's true, Italy boasts some of the finest beaches, but also some of the worst. If you happen to get it wrong, it can be very, very dirty. Sometimes perhaps, it's better to stay at home with the air con. But then again I'm from New Zealand; it's hard to compete with the beach.

2011-09-15T06:30:00.000-07:00

Mish Mash Rome

I live very close to the only Pyramid that can be found in the city of Rome. Built as a tomb for a 1st-century-BC magistrate, it stands adjacent to a 3rd century gate to the city! The contrast of the two landmarks is incredible and makes comment of how mish-mash the city today really is. New and old architecture and influences from different periods stand in stark contrast to one other, but always in a complimentary way that can only be Rome. Behind the Pyramid today exists a  graveyard where English Poet John Keats can be found. The perfect place to read a book and escape the craziness beyond the gates. 

2011-09-14T15:52:00.000-07:00

Venice was beautiful, but Rome is alive!
Grinning ear to ear. I love this city more than I could have possibly imagined. First beer in three days went down a treat. Now, sleep. Rome, you big old seducer.

2011-09-13T09:45:00.000-07:00

For the girl who, without hesitation would pull faces and scream abuse when heckled in the street, Italy has demanded a certain re-training. I've learnt to bite my tongue, to walk on without a flinch and to, well, enjoy the odd exclamation of appreciation. It's totally different here. I've witnessed countless women, of all shapes and ages, blush red rose when a man passes in the street and stops only to comment with, "Bell-iiiiss-ima!" Though I was programmed from a young age to receive any such comment with a death stare or the middle finger, I've learnt to poke the fun a little. Because when it's harmless, it can down right make your day. Because who wouldn't want to be addressed in a store not with, "what do you want?" but with "Bella, Bella, che bella giornata é oggi!"

2011-09-13T06:29:00.000-07:00

Amore mio

Today, I fell in love with Rome. I had that moment. It's been two days of shock, getting used to the city, catching metros, the strange staring of men, the women who staunch you down, but I'm there. It's beautiful, it's alive and the people are hilariously friendly. So much to do here in Rome... how am I going to fit it all in?

2011-09-12T06:15:00.000-07:00

Welcome to the Eternal City

2011-09-11T13:36:00.001-07:00

Good decision, bad decision, brave decision? It's early days so too soon to tell. I've only just arrived, my life is still in bags and I'm off to bed. Whirlwind.

2011-09-08T00:20:00.000-07:00

Saying goodbye to Serinissima
I hate to say it, but Venice starts to wear on you after nine months. There are only so many sunsets, so many midnight vaporetto rides, so many magical moments one can possibly catch. People liken living in Venice to living in a bubble. Literally an isolated island on a lagoon, it's incredibly easy to forget to watch the news, to occupy yourself with 'mainland' concerns, to engage with the wider world at large.

No bands ever visit here, there is only one movie theater and as tourists outnumber locals by four to one ( 4 TO 1!) every shop caters to them, selling cheap masks, gondolier hats or overpriced Louis Vuitton.

I came to Italy to experience a new way of life and while I have truly loved my experience in Venice, increasingly I've been wanting to jump ship and move to the mainland. To live the "real" Italy! To get caught up in it all... and so, what better way to live this than to up and move to Rome! Venice will always be home, but it's time to leave the nest.

2011-09-05T07:19:00.000-07:00

One day walking around Milan. I repeat, it's not a beautiful city, but it's full of life and if shopping is your thing, I guess it could be heaven. For me, however I loathe it and I'm sitting inside, exhausted, waiting for my train home. For now at least it's back to Venice I go.

2011-09-04T14:19:00.000-07:00

Milano I'm starting to string together a theory which runs something along the lines of, the uglier a city, the better dressed the people want to be. You know, to provide something exciting to look at. Well, in any case, if this theory were true it couldn't be truer for Milano.
I have never felt more uninspired when walking through a city than I did today. Milan is depressing. Apart from a few over botoxed faces, the stray model or the well-dressed businessman, the city leaves little to be desired. Which sucks, because I've been staying with some of the nicest people I've met all year. I have one more day for the city to sell itself to me. And I'm hoping it will... I want to like you Milan!

2011-09-02T23:17:00.000-07:00

Buon Viaggiare Egle! Manciamo te! xxx

2011-08-31T05:48:00.000-07:00

Home is where the heart isHomesickness sucks. You can be sitting in the most beautiful location in the world, but if your heart is somewhere else it can make even the most exciting of new experiences tainted. It's an inevitable part of traveling, but as I've recently discovered it's not necessarily curable with booking the next flight home. Yes, home is where the heart is and there are no words to explain how incredible it's been to chat endlessly with familiar faces. The girls I went to school with ( and their wonderful boyfriends) here in Venice, sigh. It's been an intensley busy time, but to play host in such an exciting city has been a real buzz. Buzzy bro. Yep, the slang is coming back almost instantly.  Perhaps the best thing about playing host is giving yourself permission to go out every night and consume delicious treats. Below, a few pics. What a week!

2011-08-28T14:48:00.000-07:00

Isola Pellestrina!

2011-08-27T09:51:00.000-07:00

Kiwi girls in town!

2011-08-24T11:56:00.000-07:00

I got all giddy and excited today when I was picked up after work and taken to explore the lagoon on a private boat. It's mind boggling to think we can swim in the same waters that stink and rot away all summer in Venice, but further out (or so they tell me) the lagoon is fresh and clean. The heat is at it's peak and it's making everyone a little crazy. No one can sleep and everyone is itching away like crazy bearing the wounds from the lagoons mosquitos. It's glamorous.

2011-08-21T12:18:00.000-07:00

Picnics and train-trips!

Waking up agenda free on a Saturday morning, having just been paid and with a map laid out in front of me, is one of my favourite things to do. My boyfriend and I have done this countless times over the past few months, Trieste, Padova, Verona, Lago di Garda, Mirano, St Croce, Vicenza and Bassano (I think I may be missing one, but you get the point!) It's so damn liberating just to jump on a train and head off in any which direction, to explore and enjoy a city. This weekend was exceptional, but I'll let the pictures do the talking.

2011-08-19T15:01:00.000-07:00

The great pleasures of life
Italians really know how to live. Life stops for hours, every meal - every day. Family means everything, aging doesn't dislocate you from society, but embeds you within it and food should always be served simply, fresh and dosed in olive oil.
I've learnt a lot these past months and of course, food has taken on a whole new meaning. Everything you put in your body is to be savoured, not devoured. From your cappuccino and pastry in the morning, to your pasta and vegetables at lunch followed by a smaller, more diverse, pasta at dinner again and of course a total abundance of delicious wine and coffee.
Recently I've been reading the cookbooks of homes I've been visiting (I make an odd guest) and today I was reading a chapter on 'The food of Venice.' Though I've eaten it many times, reading a four page spread on Venice's famous Baccala left my mouth drooling and my senses screaming for cod!
This afternoon provided one of those moments, the gems in life, where you walk into a store and everything unravels as it should ( or you wish it would!) As we walked in the bells chimed and a friendly old man, of about 60 or so greeted us. Completely forgetting all formalities I offered an informal 'Ciao' to which he peered up, recognized I was a foreigner and kindly corrected me with a 'Boungiorno.' Having noticed the store, completely bereft but for us, stocked baccala I exclaimed in delight that I wanted as much as he could offer and to take it away at once.
At that very moment his mother appeared, eager to assure this young stranger that it was made by her that very morning and could I please eat some there and then and give her my opinion. Nothing drives me more insane than Baccala. It is heaven on earth and hands down, hers was the best. Delighted, her son handed us a panino full each, gratis, and sent us happily on our way.
For me, this is why I am here - this is Italy. Passion, kindness, connections, family and food. I never want to leave; I love it!

2011-08-17T00:30:00.000-07:00

Scorching weather. This is summer that burns. A sun that never stops shining, humidity that suffocates you ( and makes you a little loopy) and a million tourists that have come, now - why now! to block the streets and take all the seats in the vaporetto. Luckily there is more to Venice than 'Venezia' so off to the smaller islands we go.

2011-08-14T13:48:00.000-07:00

Two new islands - one very tiring day Early this morning as we set out on our adventure to Torcello, the sun was already blaring and the humidity unbearable. The unrelenting mix of heat, tourists, slow vaporetto's and Sundays hangover was not a good mix, but after a hearty meal of fresh tortellini things started to look up. Torcello is an island on the outskirts of the lagoon and it's thought to be the cities oldest continuously populated region, boasting the most ancient church (founded 639). Surrounded by lush green reeds and with hardly anyone else there, we sat under an olive tree stuffing our faces content with freshly picked pomegranate and figs! From there we journeyed to St Erasmo, another island and which, unbeknownst to us, is the busiest summer hangout for Venetians. We were all shocked as we ventured onto the beach to discover hundreds of boats, countless bbq's, blaring music and family after family pitching up tent. I know hardly anything about the island, but intend to head back on my next day off. Rumor has it you can hire bikes and that the island has some of the best seafood on offer in Venice, so that's the plan for the rest of the week.
Tough life, but somebody's got to live it.
This is summer in Venice.

2011-08-13T15:47:00.000-07:00

Che Bella Serata
The stars were shining for our oh-so-romantic night featuring none other of course than the one and only Leonardo Dicaprio. From what I gather 'Inception' is confusing even for those who have seen it in their mother tongue, so for me, in Italian, it was near impossible to follow! In any case, it was a beautiful night. Fine friends, fragolino and a luminous rising moon; a trip to the movies is anything but common in Venice.

2011-08-12T05:45:00.000-07:00

THE VENETIAN

Today I came across this work which explores the nature of 'The Venetian.' The Venetian that is, who loathes the tourist. The invader, those who ruin all that is real, those who can be blamed as to why fruit stalls and butchers are now replaced with souvenir stands and 'mask stands.' The reason why, in sum, the Venetian begins to feel that this city is for stranieri and not for them.

And this of course is why so many schools, buildings, offices, theaters - you name it - are closed only to locals and bear the warning NO TOURISTS ALLOWED!!!

The fact is, however that 'The Venetian' is wholly reliant on the tourist. It's the number one, if not sole source of income for the city and many, if not most, make their living as tour guides, waiters, gondoliers or hotel entrepreneurs.

 'Hiroshi Watanabe,' writes, "this work represents the uneasy, but wholly reliant relationship the Venetian has with their foreign guests...it explores discomfort." I love it; he really couldn't be more apt.

2011-08-11T03:01:00.000-07:00

Finally, summer has set in. Not in the 'what should I do today to relieve the heat' kind of way, but the summer of - OH LA! - relaxing, swimming, camping, eating, drinking, sleeping, exploring, eating... Four days spent camping in Sirmione, the only peninsula that exists in Lake Garda, just a few hours away from Venice. It was such an incredible change to bathe in beautiful fresh, clean water and to picnic under olive trees looking over the alps. What a lucky girl I am - and all on a 100 euro budget! Whoop!

2011-08-06T09:19:00.000-07:00

This my blog so I do what I wan 

This is completely unrelated to Venice, but I really like this song. Today I go camping on Lake Garda (Italy's biggest lake) Yes, I'm going bush! weeeeeeeee!

2011-08-05T05:14:00.000-07:00

The heat here is sufferable. Sleepless nights, sweaty mornings, foggy afternoons and well, ok beautifully warm and alive nights, but for the most part, summer in Venice is excruciatingly HOT! Yesterday a group of us decided we had had enough, so we jumped in a car and headed up the coast on the mainland to Caorle. We pitched an umbrella, swam, ate, swam, ate, swam and only headed home in the wee hours of the night after enjoying all the coast life had to offer. This.is.summer.

2011-08-02T00:57:00.000-07:00

Estate Al Cinema
One of the campo's here in Venice is boasting a beautiful outdoor cinema - MY GOD, HOW LONG IT HAS BEEN SINCE I SAW A FILM! I think the last film I saw was in Amsterdam, by myself, watching Black Swan at midnight before riding home alone in the dark. Scary stuff! Anyway, the cinema, which only screens films in Italian - take that tourists - is cheap, it's beautiful and I have a date to see a different flick each night this week. It's the warm summer evenings that I have really fallen in love with. Two weeks without work, yes, everyone has gone on vacation. Bliss!

2011-07-26T08:13:00.000-07:00

She's got her head in the clouds I tell you!

"It is a truth universally acknowledged, that a single man in possession of a good fortune must be in want of a wife" - Pride and Prejudice.

"Who controls the past controls the future: who controls the present controls the past" - 1984.

My favorite time of the day, as weird as it seems, is at 7.30am when I start to make my one hour journey from the heart of Venice to the Lido. There is nothing like a good book to distract you from the bored, tired, faces surrounding you and I always feel slightly chuffed, as I peer out from behind whatever classic I'm trying to tackle, to peer at them. Hurrah for good literature I tell you; my savior!

2011-07-25T06:34:00.000-07:00

When there is light no more...

Once a year every campo  in Venice has what is called a "sagra." Consisting of long tables which fill the square, barbequed meat, fish, polenta (and other tasty venetian treats) as well as lots of vino, it's an entertaining night and consists of all that I love about Italy. Everyone, from your Grandma, to your new born niece attends and young boozers sit alongside 'civilized' families for hours on end, enjoying the night, together.

Yes, Sagra provides a well needed boost to the night life here, which sadly doesn't really exist so to speak of. And if nightlife is in fact what you're after, as I have discovered, you have to jump in a car and head onto the mainland. Pride Village Padova has all you could ever dream of. It's really something else...

2011-07-25T06:15:00.000-07:00

TrevisoIt's important, as life here becomes normalized, to remember to be a tourist and for no reason other than, to see!, to head off on a train in any odd direction. Saturday then brought us to Treviso and we wandered around in the late afternoon sun soothing last nights hangover with gelato, spritz and various tramizzini! As the height of summer nears I'm starting to write a list of places I want to visit as there's no better time to see a city when the sun is out, everyone has flocked to the center and no one wants to give in and go home and rest. Yes there's something in the air... and it's summer.

2011-07-20T09:50:00.000-07:00

Shower, hair rolls, fishing net - check. Grandma's here are cooler. Hands down.

2011-07-17T11:49:00.000-07:00

Redentore!

One of the biggest celebrations of the year, where boats fill the lagoon, a bridge is created to join "Venice" to Giudecca and everyone comes out to play. I love the sense of occasion of this place - and that people jump at any opportunity to enjoy the outdoors and all the free space around them. Below, one of numerous "private parties" held yesterday. Oh what a night...

2011-07-15T05:45:00.000-07:00

Summer time - hose fights, long lunches, bike rides, beach dips - I even have a tan! Relaxing? It should be, but I'm currently weighing up a million "what next questions." Yes, it's the quarter life crisis... again! I blame my BA. Deadline - Monday.

2011-07-10T14:31:00.001-07:00

Swimming everyday on the Lido in Venice - it's hot!

2011-07-10T14:08:00.000-07:00

I had my first big night out here in a very long time and it was everything I needed just to remind myself I like this place, my friends here rule and sometimes Venice (though always beautiful) is cool. The nature of the night called for my first "Kiwi" Breakfast in a good six months and the first time I've cooked eggs for Italians (many who yelled che skifo and opted for cookies and coffee instead.) Nonetheless I was happy, relieved and content. Round of applause please...this is one dreamily poached egg.

2011-07-10T05:24:00.000-07:00

We LOVE Nouvelle Vague x

2011-07-09T07:14:00.000-07:00

St Mark's Square + Lightening.... Hours of fun!

2011-07-08T02:25:00.000-07:00

Un giorno della vita

And typical way to start the day...at the bar..Wandering the streets...Aperitivo with friends...
And going home x

2011-07-06T09:21:00.000-07:00

Una regala per mi! Recently I sat on my - very expensive - Karen Walker sunglasses and almost burst into tears. A summer without them? No way! I was re-telling this sad tale to the mother of a dear friend of mine who, with a smile in her eye, went to a draw full of Gucci - Prada - Fendi - you name it - and let me take my pick! A vintage pair of beautiful Fendi please! Sono molto, molto fortunata... As modeled by una amica; thanks Brit x

2011-07-05T13:40:00.000-07:00

Nothing makes being home alone more scary than thunder and lightening. Tonight I snapped this on my way home - my canal ( my house is on the right) filled with the light of the storm. Ah, Summer.

2011-07-05T04:58:00.000-07:00

(NEW) Home Sweet Home

Nothing makes a girl feel more at home than a big plate of pasta and good friends.

2011-07-03T13:43:00.002-07:00

 Home 

Reading the Odyssey is a great way to kill time and make myself feel like I'm "doing something." The recurring theme of home and the want of loved ones however makes it a dubious choice. For the first time during my trip, I've been suffering terrible home sickness. It's ironic really, as we're almost at the peak of summer, while home is characterized by blustering wind and rain, but I miss it. Been reading Mum's blog recently ( yep, Mum has a blog too) and the want for NZ is kicking in.

2011-06-29T15:23:00.000-07:00

Parties in Venice are better

2011-06-26T05:39:00.000-07:00

Bellissima MestreMestre is the first town you encounter on the mainland from Venice and everyone bags it. I know countless people (Italians and foreigners) who live here and have managed to avoid it completely. But after 6 months living in this weird theme park adventure land, I have to say, I prefer it. To ride a bike to meet friends, read a book in the park, go shopping and discover everything isn't three times what it should be. I don't get what the problem is... Mestre is no Venice, but we already knew that didn't we

2011-06-23T22:39:00.000-07:00

Ok so I'm not as isolated as I thought, Venice is only an hour away and life on Lido is pretty good. Last night as I made my, almost daily trip back to "the city", this was my view. Possibly the most beautiful "commute" ever experienced. I mean really, how could one get stressed with this sort of traffic? Falling in love with Venice all over again, maybe some space is doing us good.

2011-06-22T08:13:00.000-07:00

Room with a viewShock. Yes, my new life has been a shock, but I am getting used to it. As my father, always one full of advice, told me yesterday - we are the generation of projection. It's all about what we've done and what we're going to do, not about the now. I took that as "Lucy, get off the flipping internet, stop being home sick, take a deep breath and enjoy." And so I am going to make the most of it. Good books, lots of swimming, incredible Italian food and life without worries. Well not many anyway. I'll still tune in here from time to time, but I'm going on vacation ( senza internet). Time to detox and grow up. Or become a kid again, I can't figure out which. x

2011-06-21T06:09:00.000-07:00

My new life is weird. Part of me LOVES it ( well, mostly I love meal times), the other part however is begging to be 23 again. To live with friends, go out, live in a city, to be...well, young! But for now I am a boring au pair, living in paradise, swimming in the pool, reading lots of books and biking to the beach. I think I can handle it. In saying that, I'm about to plan my trip home. Yes, One Year in Venice must end.

2011-06-18T11:46:00.000-07:00

Pooped

I'm exhausted. The past two weeks have been intense and I've just come back to Venice where my life, as of today, has changed rather dramatically. As many Venetians do, we're leaving Venice for the summer and moving to an island on the periphery of the lagoon. It's an hour away and the idea is to escape both the unbearable humidity and the influx of tourists. As of yet my feelings are not settled on the concept ( today I was served caviar by the "help" who wear uniforms), there's no internet, I'm in my own little isolated apartment and if I'm hungry I have to wait to be served...but I'm taking deep breaths and reflecting on the time which has just passed to keep my spirits up. Last week I was fortunate enough to return to Amalfi with one of my best friends and it was wonderful. It's the holidays that keep me going... so where to next?

2011-06-17T00:21:00.000-07:00

Well and alive

I received an email from mum asking "where are you?" and realized it's been a while since I logged in. The past week has been crazy - Rome, Napoli, The Amalfi Coast - and all it's highlights. It's been a wonderful,inspiring, tiring experience and I've been too exhausted to check in and write. Mum, here are some pics. I'm eating vegetables, I'll get some sleep soon... I'm well and alive x